Does anyone remember the days when the fanciest drink you could get at Wilko was an Izze sparkling grapefruit soda? It’s only been five years, but it seems like ages ago that the owners tossed out the grab-and-go salads, shaded the windows on the beverage case and turned this campus-area market into a sleek, gourmet restaurant.
And my, how far they’ve come. Today, Wilko boasts one of the city’s most creative cocktail selections. Open the paper menu adorned with whimsical illustrations of each drink, and you’ll find creations like the Oh Hi Yo with ancho and cinnamon tincture, as well as a drink called the Rockingbird that’s sweetened with maple syrup smoked with aromatic Peruvian wood. (Did we mention Wilko has an absinthe frappe?)
The Penguin Suit, $10, is built around orgeat, a rustic French almond milk that’s most commonly seen in the famous tiki drink, the Mai Tai. Bar manager Sara Holcombe makes her own in the sous-vide machine, cooking down almond milk, brandy, orange flower water and salt. According to beverage director Lucas Anable, the end result “tastes like liquid marzipan.”
But the drink is spirit heavy, with five different liquors that all add a distinct quality: A smoky Laphroaig Scotch is a natural companion to absinthe, Lucas said, elevating the warming medicinal properties of the anise and giving the drink a wintery roasted flavor. Cachaça, a Brazilian sugar cane distillate brings in some fruitiness, along with the blanc vermouth. After the liquors are stirred together with the orgeat and a salted lemon cordial, the mixture takes on a wonderful soft, pearly white color. Sara then floats a darker black strap rum on the top, creating a layered effect that reminded me of the sunrise.
The intent is to make a sort of reverse-cocktail: At first, you’re hit by the smoke, and the aromas of baking spices from the rum. But underneath, there’s this incredible fruity almond flavor that shines through, almost unexpectedly. Kind of like wearing penguin suit with a Hawaiian shirt underneath: It's winter on the outside, and a party within!
