You can blanket a doughnut in chocolate glaze or bury it beneath sprinkles or even twist it into fanciness.
But, none of that matters. The true test of a doughnut is how it tastes plain.
An unadorned, glazed doughnut may not be the flashiest pastry in the case, but it’ll clue you in to how good the rest of the doughnuts are. And at Young Donut Shop, 1043 N. Kolb Road, the glazed doughnuts are tops.
Light as air with a thin, almost crackly sugar glaze, it seems a disservice to refer to them as “plain.”
They’re anything but.
Though the doughnuts are puffy, they still have some chew and just the right amount of sweetness. Way too often doughnuts are so cloyingly sweet that a mere bite can induce cavities.
For the past year and a half, Sophy Se and her brother Keng Se have had the little doughnut shop, interestingly located next door to a children’s dental office.
The doughnut making starts long before the sun’s even thinking about peeking over the Rincon Mountains — at 2 a.m. — and Keng spends the next several hours making batter, giving it time to rise and then frying the doughnuts.
Sophy, who says she’s too old to make the doughnuts, handles the register. She’s known for slipping little bonuses into those pink pastry boxes. Sometimes she sneaks in “little dots” — that’s what doughnut holes are called in my house — other times, it’s a whole extra doughnut. Now that’s sweet.
See the full review in Thursday's Caliente.
