When Dwight Eisenhower was president, from 1953 to 1961, America saw itself differently than it does today.
Among many ways that difference expressed itself was the unabashed embrace of processed and packaged foods. This was the era when a packet of Lipton French Onion soup mix stirred into a carton of sour cream made a thrilling new dip, and a whole family of โImpossibly Easyโ pies relied on Bisquick to produce a crust that sank to the bottom in baking.
Community cookbooks in my collection from this era tout the authenticity of chow mein and fried rice as truly Chinese dishes (they werenโt) and relied on canned pineapple chunks, canned bean sprouts and canned water chestnuts to turn almost anything into a dish with a so-called Chinese flair.
In that period, presidentsโ wives often shared their โfavorite recipesโ as part of their first lady duties. Eisenhowerโs wife, Mamie, touted this fudge as a family favorite. Whether that was true or not, the recipe produced such easy, creamy, reliable results that Mamieโs โmillion dollar fudgeโ enchanted home cooks everywhere.
These days, weโre much more likely to turn away from processed foods such as the marshmallow crรจme used in this fudge. Itโs not a product that I adore, to be sure.
But it has a functional role in this fudge โ its stability ensures that the fudge wonโt go grainy. That graininess when making traditional fudge recipes comes from several issues: It may have been overcooked; it may have been beaten too long; or it may not have cooled to the correct temperature. For new or inexperienced cooks, making fudge that doesnโt turn out dry, crumbly, or grainy may require several failed batches.
So if Iโm planning to make a batch of fudge, I grit my teeth and buy marshmallow crรจme anyway because this is the easiest, most reliable fudge I know how to make.
Another way that our foodways have changed is a new preference for lively flavors. Back in Mamieโs era, bland was best. I can still remember my grandmother hovering over the curry sauce she planned to serve to five guests. She wondered aloud if a quarter-teaspoon of the bland Madras curry powder sheโd added was โtoo much.โ
Since I knew the little tin of curry powder was likely at least 5 years old, I felt I could reassure her that her guests would find it just right.
So while the original chocolate fudge is fine โ if tooth-breakingly sweet โ as is, its flavor profile is as bland as can be. How much more fun to enliven it with the bright heat of hot chile powder, and to choose a nut thatโs more appropriate here in Arizona โ pine nuts or pecans โ to replace the walnuts that Mamie would have reached for.
In future batches, I may add some espresso powder to make the flavor even more complex. Coffee and chocolate go so well together that it could be a worthwhile experiment.
But hereโs my current rendition of Mamieโs fudge, and I hope youโll enjoy it. It makes a sizeable batch, enough to provide gifts to several friends, if thatโs your bent. Thatโs usually my plan, because I donโt need two pounds of fudge sitting on the counter or in the fridge begging to be eaten.
MAMIE EISENHOWERโS FUDGE VISITS TUCSON
Makes 2 pounds of fudge
Piloncillo, sometimes called panela, is Mexican raw sugar. Its flavor profile is complex, with hints of molasses, and it transforms this fudge into a 21st century version of the original. Use brown sugar if you wish to replace it. Weโve added the warmth of hot chile powder, and to be especially Arizonan, choose lightly toasted pine nuts or pecans for the fudge.
INGREDIENTS
12 ounces semisweet chocolate morsels
12 ounces sweet chocolate, broken into small pieces
2 cups marshmallow cream (one 16-ounce jar)
1 tablespoon hot chile powder
2 pounds piloncillo or panela brown sugar (4ยฝ cups)
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons butter
12 ounces canned evaporated milk
2 cups coarsely chopped nuts, optional
PREPARATION
Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish pan or mist it in with nonstick cooking spray.
Stir together the semisweet chocolate, Germanโs chocolate, marshmallow cream, and chile powder in a large bowl.
Bring the sugar, salt, butter and evaporated milk to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil for one minute. Reduce the heat and simmer seven minutes, stirring continuously. Pour the hot syrup over the chocolate mixture and stir until smooth. Stir in the nuts if using.
Pour into the prepared pan. Let stand undisturbed at room temperature until firm, preferably overnight.
Cut the fudge into small squares. Store in an airtight container for up to two weeks. Some people prefer the texture of this fudge when it is chilled after it is cut.
