Growing up in a small Michigan village, I sometimes was allowed to stay a few days with one of my friends whose family ran a dairy farm.
I can still remember the sound of the rhythmic pulsing and hissing of the milking machines; the intoxicating scent of the newly baled alfalfa hay that would feed the cows all winter; and the taste of the butterfat-heavy whole milk at her familyβs table.
I loved the peace of the milk parlor, where the big black-and-white Holsteins swished their tails as they ate their grain rations, and I loved especially the chance to bottle-feed the calves.
Not all the memories were so lovely, though. As a teenager, I sometimes spent a week or more with my friend during haying season β invariably, the hottest days of the Michigan summer. Our job each day was to βtuck stringβ β that is, to walk behind the baling machine driven by her brother, check that the ties on each bale were secure, and then to bounce the 70-pound rectangular bales on our thighs to boost them onto the wagon that would carry them to the barn.
It was hot, dusty work. By the end of the afternoon, my thighs would be scratched bloody from bouncing those bales. My back, arms and shoulders would be as weak as water. A quick shower, some clean clothes and an early supper, and I was out like a light until the next morning.
Something else sticks in my memory about those long haying days. Sometime around mid-afternoon, my friendβs mom or older sister would come bouncing into the field in an old pickup truck.
They would bring us switchel, a traditional cold drink for haying crews. Icy and sweet-tart with molasses and cider vinegar, the switchel and some homemade cookies kept us going until dusk and evening milking time.
These days, I suppose most of us doing heavy outside work on a scorching afternoon would reach for an energy drink to replace the electrolytes weβd sweat out. But switchel and salted lemonade do the same thing β weβve just forgotten about them.
I think thatβs too bad, because theyβre cheaper to make than energy drinks, and I like the traditions behind them.
As I write this, families of hummingbirds and house finches flit about the little water feature outside the window by my desk. The birds arrive at the water with their beaks agape β they are feeling the heat themselves. They drink, and sometimes they bathe, and then fly off for a while.
Even early in the morning, itβs far too hot for me to join them on the patio for any length of time. All I can do is make sure the water feature stays topped up, and then retreat into the house. Like the birds, Iβm feeling the heat.
But unlike the birds, I know that the pitcher of switchel or salted lemonade stashed in my fridge will keep my thirst sated and my body in balance. The two drinks can do the same for you, inexpensively and deliciously.
Salted lemonade
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Vary this by using limes instead of lemons β youβll need more limes, about 15 should do. Sweeten the whole pitcher of lemonade at once or add simple syrup to each glass as it is served. The lemonade will keep, refrigerated, for up to three days; the simple syrup, refrigerated, will keep a week or more.
Ingredients
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Juice of a dozen lemons β donβt discard the rinds and pulp!
2 teaspoons salt
Preparation
Make the simple syrup: Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat; cook, stirring, until sugar dissolves. It does not need to boil. Remove from heat and set aside.
Combine 6 cups water, rinds and pulp in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil; remove from heat, cover and allow to steep for 15 to 20 minutes. Strain the liquid and discard rinds and pulp.
Combine lemon juice, steeped water, and salt in a large pitcher. Stir until the salt is dissolved. Refrigerate for up to three days.
To serve, sweeten contents of pitcher or each individual glass with simple syrup as desired. Pour mixture over ice in tall glasses and serve immediately.
Switchel, sometimes called Haymakerβs Punch
Makes about 8 servings
Ground ginger will never fully dissolve, so shake or stir the switchel before serving if youβre using it.
If you have rum on hand, switchel makes a good base for a refreshing afternoon cocktail. Try diluting it a little with sparkling water. The switchel will keep, refrigerated, for up to a week and perhaps longer.
Ingredients
10 cups cold water
1 cup blackstrap molasses, agave syrup, honey, or granulated sugar
Β½ cup apple cider vinegar, preferably raw and unfiltered
ΒΌ cup chopped fresh ginger, or 3 tablespoons ground ginger
Preparation
Combine water, molasses, vinegar and ginger in a large pitcher. Refrigerate until needed.
To serve, pour switchel over ice in a tall glass.
