With its nouveau chic decor and elegant plates of charred bacon-wrapped shrimp, the new Amalour Revival Lounge fits in with the popular kids at St. Philip’s Plaza. But get to know it a little better and you’ll see, it has a geeky side.
When the restaurant switched gears from Bodega Kitchen and Wine last month, the team built a vintage cocktail list inspired by recipes from the 19th and early 20th century. Each drink on the “Unforgettables” section of menu lists both a year and a location. For example: the 1895 Corpse Reviver #2 from London with Bombay gin and an absinthe rinse, or the 1930 Hemingway Daiquiri with fresh grapefruit juice, 10 Cane rum and a lime wheel from Havana, Cuba.
Many of the drinks came from a book called “Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails: From the Alamagoozlum to the Zombie and Beyond,” by Ted Haigh A.K.A. Dr. Cocktail. In the book’s premise, the author — a Hollywood graphic designer who’s worked on the films “American Beauty” and “O Brother, Where Art Thou?” — calls his readers cocktail archaeologists.
Beware: Browsing through Amalour’s list may give you a yearning for those beautiful, forgotten cities of the past. I felt the call of old New Orleans, so I ordered the 1862 Brandy Crusta. (They also have a sazerac!)
In its traditional format, a Brandy Crusta features a sugar rim that the bartender has applied several hours before, giving it time to dry out and become crusty on the glass.
Crustas also have a large band of citrus zest sticking up from the brandy that the drinker can use as a sort of makeshift straw or liquor slide, if you will. Some people call the Crusta the original sour, or a precursor to the Sidecar.
Stunning pink in its coupe glass, the drink made me swoon. The soothing elixir of Grand Marnier, tart lemon and sweet simple syrup set the stage for the sharp, oaky Hennessy cognac. The lemon peel, which was less pronounced and simply floated on top, gave off a lovely crisp citrus aroma.
Those on a mule kick — or a “buck” kick, to be more accurate — will be pleased to know that Amalour also serves several types of our favorite copper mug cocktail: the Moscow Mule (vodka buck), Kentucky Mule (bourbon buck), Dark ‘N’ Stormy (rum buck), Mamie Taylor (Scotch buck) and the Foghorn (gin buck also known as London buck.)
Just in case you’re in the mood for something fancy.
