Elote dip a nice addition to any football game spread

That time I “borrowed” my brother’s brand new bike — took it for a ride without his permission, in other words — and crashed it still haunts me.

I knocked out my two front teeth in that crash, which also totaled my brother’s new bike. More than a half-century later, the bridge that replaced those missing front teeth puts certain foods off limits.

No more the pleasure of biting into a crisp, cold apple, for example. Oh, I can still eat apples; I must just first cut them into slices.

Corn on the cob is another lost pleasure. While I look with passionate desire at the elote sold by vendors around town, I know defeat when I see it.

Still, I love the flavor of roasted corn. I sometimes roast a few ears when I’m grilling something else. Then, when they’ve cooled enough to handle, I cut the kernels from the cob. Dressed with sour cream and tajin seasoning, the corn makes a good side dish to steak or chicken.

I was plotting out my visit to Tucson Meet Yourself last week, checking out all the food vendors, when the idea for this dip occurred to me. While I knew I couldn’t eat elote at the festival, I could make this dip to enjoy its flavors when I got home.

Since it’s now the season for little parties to watch “the game,” whether that’s collegiate or professional or, God forbid, both (I loathe football). The elote dip seems like a good offering for those occasions, since it can be served hot or cold. I prefer it cold, because I like its crunch; you may prefer it warmed, which emphasizes its creamy dressing.

If you’re grilling burgers before the game, serve the elote dip on the side. I like a spoonful atop my burger, thank you.

A few particulars about its preparation: If you’re using the sweet corn that comes already shucked and seems to be available all year ‘round, this is an especially good use for it. Since it doesn’t have much flavor on its own, a light char on the grill contributes some complexity.

You can certainly make this with frozen corn kernels when fresh corn is out of season. I tip the frozen kernels onto a baking sheet, then blast them under the broiler to char them.

If you can find fresh red chiles, substitute a couple of those for the sweet red pepper. Depending on the chiles you use, you may wish to delete the chipotle or chile powder. I like crema for the dressing, but not too much – you don’t want it to be soupy, but you do want the cooling power of the dairy. I think this is best with a salty cheese like cotija or feta, but if you use queso fresco, you’ll definitely want the additional salt at the end.

Elote dip or salad

Makes about 8 servings

Quick and easy to make, this roasted corn dip also can act as a side salad if that suits your menu better. Use tortilla chips or corn chips as dippers to double up the corn flavors.

Ingredients

4 ears sweet corn, shucked (see note)

1 cup cotija, queso fresco, or other crumbly white cheese, such as feta

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4 green onions, green and white parts, thinly sliced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped

1 cup crema, sour cream, or mayonnaise

½ cup diced red onion

½ bunch cilantro, finely chopped

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon chipotle powder, chile powder or hot sauce

Juice of 2 limes

Salt and pepper, to taste

Tortilla or corn chips, for serving

Preparation

If using fresh corn, brush the ears lightly with vegetable or olive oil. Heat a griddle, large cast iron skillet or your grill, and cook the corn, turning frequently, until it’s lightly charred on all sides. Set aside to cool.

When the corn is cool enough to handle, cut the kernels from the cobs. Some people like to stand the cobs up in a Bundt cake pan so the kernels can drop into the pan.

I usually just lay the cobs on the cutting board and work my way around until all the kernels are cut from the cob. Either way, place the kernels in a medium-sized bowl. Save the cobs if you want to make corn chowder one of these days; they freeze well and add a great deal of flavor to the stock.

Add the remaining ingredients except for the chips and stir well to blend. Refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours to allow flavors to meld.

At serving time, serve the dip cold with chips. You can also warm it up in a 350-degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes if you like.

Note: Trader Joe’s sells frozen Mexican roasted corn in a 14-ounce package. One package is enough for this recipe; discard the sauce packet.