A calendar, scribbled with deadlines and terse notes, has a prominent place in the second season of “The Bear.”
Meant as a timeline, it’s also a visual reminder of the hectic pace that colors the series – a brilliant look at the pressurized world of restaurants and the slim margins its people live on.
Jeremy Allen White and Ayo Edebiri test recipes for the opening of their new restaurant on "The Bear."
Last season, Carmy Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White) was at wit’s end trying to whip the staff of The Beef into shape. Noted for making sandwiches, the hole-in-the-wall Chicago establishment was about to go under when he discovered cans of money left by his late brother. That put into play a remodel, a re-theme and a change of attitude.
In Season Two (labeled Part II), Carmy and the gang begin the process, hoping to be done by the end of May. Like that first season, “The Bear” still runs on tension. Carmy shares decision-making with his sous chef, Sydney (Ayo Edebiri), and gets his sister, Natalie (Abby Elliott), to handle project management. Everyone else in the restaurant has specific assignments but “cousin” Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach) feels lost. In protecting the past, he can’t find his own future. Others have more fascinating tomorrows. His are an attempt to retain yesterdays.
Ebon Moss-Bachrach, left, and Jeremy Allen White begin demolition on their old sandwich shop on "The Bear."
In transforming The Beef to The Bear (you’ll understand once the episodes unfold), creator Christopher Storer and co-showrunner Joanna Calo find a new world – one that’s just as littered with pitfalls. Carmy needs more money, Sydney needs new inspiration, pastry chef Marcus (Lionel Boyce) needs different horizons.
Storer and company swirl it all together in interesting ways and manage some guest stars (including notable Chicago chefs) in ways you couldn’t have imagined. Family pressures are present in all of the characters’ lives. There’s a bit of “Ted Lasso” here and a hint of “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” there. But none of it seems overdone (not even the Meg Ryan-like romance) because there’s a bigger story at play.
Season One may have been concerned with sizing up the situation. Season Two is all-in on fixing it. (“I wear suits now,” Richie says). Luckily, Carmy isn’t overwhelmed by anxiety or silently suffering his decision. He welcomes the participation of his staff and gives them opportunities, too. When Marcus studies in Copenhagen, “The Bear” reaches an “Atlanta” high that serves it well. At home, we get to see what drives the Berzattos and why there is such a delicate balance among personalities.
Best of all, we cheer for the people who obsess over food. As they tenderly place bits and pieces on their works of art, we feel their pride and understand their passion.
White is still perfection as our tour guide, but we get less of an outsider’s perspective when we get to see the others in their element. Building to the big opening, “The Bear” is like the week before Christmas – filled with chaos, a bit of dread and lots of anticipation.
The series isn’t a fluke. It’s as good as we thought it was last year and, maybe, even a little bit better.
When you see the fulcrum at home, you’ll understand what pokes “The Bear.” In a word, it’s phenomenal. And the series is, too. It proves “every second counts.”
“The Bear” airs on Hulu beginning June 22.
