Each year, thousands of Arizona residents email or call Rosie Romero’s radio show with questions about everything from preventing fires in their chimneys to getting rid of tree roots invading their sewer system. His goal is to provide answers that suit the specific lifestyle wherever someone lives in Arizona.
QUESTION: I have a side yard gate installed when my house was built. It has a wobbly wrought iron latch that I’d like to repair in a more permanent way. I’ve fixed it before by putting larger rivets into the masonry wall next to the gates; is that the way I have to keep fixing it — by putting in larger and larger rivets? I also need a suggestion on what to use to replace the wooden slats in the gate?
ANSWER: Once you get the anchors out, you should try what they call a lead Lag Shield — a screw-type anchor designed for use in masonry. It works well in concrete in a way that other methods can’t. Once you remove the old rivet, clean out any debris left behind in the hole used for the rivet. Use a tape measure to get an approximate size for the size of the shield. You can also take a picture of the area with you to the hardware store. If you’re worried about the size, buy one size smaller and one size bigger; return what you don’t use afterward. As for the slats, use Trex or any of the five or six brands of wood composites. They all work very well.
Q: I want to replace a 40-gallon conventional electric water heater for my family of six with an instant electric tankless water heater as a do-it-yourself project. I’m doing this partly to get some space for shelves or cabinets in our utility room. I’m also wondering if I need to install a water softener?
A: Yes, most manufacturers of instant hot water heaters recommend having a water softener installed on the pipe that takes water into the heater. The problem is that when you flash-heat water as these devices do, it accelerates the buildup of minerals from our Arizona hard water on the coil inside the heater. As a result, heating coils can burn up in as little as nine months. A water softener can prevent that from happening.
Q: I have a good-sized lot with four large pine trees in an area of a few small hills. I’ve been grading that area and laying down some gravel. But I’ve found a lot of plastic sheeting that was put down by a previous owner. Under the sheeting are large mats of roots from the trees. Will I hurt the trees by grading away the smaller size roots?
A: When the plastic was put down, condensation formed under the plastic and the roots seem to chase the moisture. The truth is that even driving machinery over the root zone is bad for the trees because it robs the soil of oxygen. So, try to keep the grading to a minimum around the trees. Where you’ve found the plastic, you should try to pull it up carefully while leaving the soil intact. Then put wood chips down over those spots to help insulate the soil against the sun. Wood chips can mitigate any damage to the roots.
Q: I have a manufactured home with a dark-colored shingle roof and someone suggested to me that I should paint the shingles white because that color would reflect the heat and extend the life of the roof. Does that sound like a good idea?
A: Yes, that would certainly work well for you. They do make specific paint designed to cover shingles. You just have to make sure that the painter prepares the roof properly.
