This cross-cultural dish features familiar southwestern flavors

There’s a Thai dish that I like very much called larb (say “lohb”) — ground chicken or pork seasoned with the typically light, bright flavors that signify Thai flavors: sweet, spicy, savory, umami-rich. It is a pleasure to eat, especially in the company of others, because I believe eating with the hands intensifies the bond we share when we dine together.

But there’s no reason why the principles behind larb can’t translate to other cuisines’ flavor profiles. I recently created the dish with a Southwestern flavor profile with great success. The classic Thai version includes fish sauce or soy sauce to add an umami-rich punch to larb; I find it’s not necessary in the Southwestern version, although you could add some if you like; you won’t detect its flavor, but you’ll notice its effect.

I made my recent version with ground chicken. If you can’t find it, you can hash up some chicken breasts — or boneless, skinless thighs for even richer flavor — in a food processor. Ground turkey is a good substitute as well. Although I haven’t tried it, I imagine tofu would work, too.

Something you should know about ground poultry: The United States Department of Agriculture’s “standards of identity” allow fat and skin to be ground into poultry in the same ratio as they appear on the natural bird.

This isn’t an issue for me, because I believe that fat lends flavor to an otherwise bland meat. But if you’re looking for super-lean ground poultry, seek out those labeled “ground breast,” or grind your own.

For more traditional Southwestern flavors, ground pork or beef would be good choices. These meats will render more juices, so thickening those juices with a tablespoon of masa harina is a good idea — Thai larb uses rice flour to do exactly this. I often use masa harina as a thickener in all kinds of soupy-stewy dishes. The key is to cook the mixture a few moments longer, to remove the raw flavor from the masa harina.

I try to keep a jar of these quick pickled red onions in the fridge all the time. They are mild in flavor, not too sharp because the vinegar in which they marinate is diluted. Their bright color makes them a lively addition to all kinds of other dishes, from salads to sandwiches .

You can use this same slightly sweetened, diluted vinegar bath to make a dish that my family calls “Danish cucumbers”: sliced cucumbers and onions set into this mild pickle.

When I make Danish cucumbers, I add lavish grindings of black pepper to the marinade, and then eat them for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Southwestern ‘larb’ with pickled onions

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Make the pickled onions up to 2 weeks in advance. The pretty pickles are good on all kinds of sandwiches and salads.

Substitute ground pork, turkey or beef for chicken if you wish; if you do, you’ll want to drain excess fat, and adding a tablespoon of masa harina to thicken any juices is a good idea. Cook the mixture after adding the masa harina to give it a chance to work its magic. And of course, you could put this filling in corn or wheat tortillas.

Ingredients

1 medium red onion

1 tablespoon sugar

1 ½ teaspoon coarse salt

1 cup white or cider vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound ground chicken

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1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional

For serving:

Butter lettuce leaves, romaine leaves or lettuce leaves

1 or 2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, sliced crosswise into discs

Cilantro leaves

Limes, cut into quarters

Preparation

Make the pickles: Cut the onion in half from top to bottom, then slice each half into thin slices. If you have a mandolin, this is a good time to use it; a food processor can also do this work.

Place the onions into a bowl or quart-sized canning jar.

In a separate bowl, place the sugar and salt. Add the vinegar and one-half cup water; whisk until the sugar and salt dissolve. Pour this mixture over the onions.

Refrigerate for at least one hour before use or prepare in advance.

Prepare the filling: In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Crumble in the chicken and cook, breaking the chicken apart as it cooks, until it begins to color.

Stir in the chili powder, garlic and onion powders, and optional cayenne pepper, and continue to cook until the chicken is cooked through, stirring frequently.

Transfer the mixture to a bowl and keep warm.

To serve, pile the lettuce leaves on a platter. Add the chiles, cilantro leaves and quartered limes, and a bowl of the pickled onion slices. Place the bowl of chicken on the platter.

Each diner can place the chicken on a cupped lettuce leaf and garnish as desired with the pickled onions, chiles and cilantro, followed by a squeeze of lime juice.