The Southern comfort food trend that inspired foodies on both coasts in recent years looked like it would never really make it to Tucson. And while the opening of two restaurants - Mays Counter Chicken & Waffles and the Onyx Room - in the past year isn't indicative of a trend per se, we'll take it.
Though there is some overlap, Onyx, 106 W. Drachman St., concentrates more on soul-food eats (brisket, oxtail, pig's feet) made from family recipes, while Mays' menu is anchored by its signature chicken and waffle plates and diner-style fare.
If the prospect of indulging in fried and breaded foods at the height of Tucson summer seems overwhelming, consider the bustling lunch crowd at the amply air-conditioned Mays. Tinted windows, brick walls and plenty of dark wood made a cool cocoon, with the midtown space baring no signs of its former, eat-and-go Pizza Hut self.
If you are after a quick bite, you'll want to sit at one of the more than a dozen red stools lining the long counter. The turnaround was about 30 minutes during a lunch rush, though whether busy or not, food arrives on pace.
The young, friendly servers, in their uniforms of black tank tops, are plenty prepared to chat about the menu, which is how I found myself involved with a plate of fried Kool-Aid. But let's not jump to dessert.
Mays' menu is ambitious, with unexpected salads, sandwiches - including a patty melt ($9) and shrimp po-boy ($11) - and six entrees, an 8-ounce flat-iron steak ($15) and catfish ($14) among them. Scrambles ($8), corned beef hash and eggs ($7) and other breakfast items are available all day, too. But you need not do so much taxing reading: Head straight for the fried chicken and you'll find a friend for life.
The fried chicken at Mays - as in chef and restaurateur Aaron May, an Arizona Culinary Hall of Famer - is simply some of the best I've had, here or elsewhere. Fried in a pressure cooker, it's breaded perfectly, just enough so that the skin is crispy and the meat inside remains juicy. It was so good that the waffle part of the Odd Bird ($8) - a chef's choice of three pieces that happily translated to a wing, breast and leg - seemed like a fifth wheel.
The dense waffles, served with a generous fluff of butter, have a nice depth thanks to the malt in the batter, and can be served with blueberries, bacon, pecans, chocolate chips or Reese's Pieces. All of which seems unnecessary, because, again, the star is the chicken, and it doesn't need any kind of fancy additions except maple syrup if you're in the mood. And perhaps some elastic-waist pants.
But even if you fall in love upon your first dance, it's just good manners to mingle and work the room.
Appetizers at Mays split the difference between the traditional and solid drunk food. Opting for the former, the crispy pickle chips ($6) were lightly breaded in a crunchy cornmeal batter and served without a hint of oil. Oddly, however, they hung out on sad slices of yellowed iceberg lettuce.
Since a co-worker practically double-dog dared me, I also encountered the Tot-chos ($9), something that must have been invented with plenty of PBR (Pabst Blue Ribbon beer) involved. This is not a criticism. The fryer at Mays is clearly top-notch, so the Tater Tots were toasty and not greasy, as with all of the eatery's fried foods. Smothered and covered with cheese sauce, jalapeños, black olives, scallions, sour cream and bits of chicken, this massive plate of decadence must have the lowest per-ounce price in the place.
Mays again does it up with the choice of sides, 10 in all including fried okra, sweet potatoes and corn bread. Order a "big plate" and you get your choice of two.
Of those options, the chicken fried steak ($11) is a winner. While the restaurant has a rather light hand with salt and pepper, the tenderized meat melts in the mouth, nevermind the appropriately thick breading and brown gravy on top.
Not quite as successful is the Southern-style pork chop ($12). I'll say this for the chop: It makes a grand entrance. Browned to a gorgeous toffee color and served atop warm, home-made bourbon apple sauce, you'd be forgiven for being seduced by this Southern belle. She is, however, a bit prettier on the outside. The dry pork had little flavor, and the thick ring of fat rendered it on the small side.
The equally pretty shrimp-n-grits ($16), however, offered style and substance. While the grits, sprinkled with shredded cheese, were a bit thin, the hearty garlic sauce and six fresh, plump shrimp added nice heft.
The portions of sides were large as well. The collard greens were a favorite, cooked long, but not too long, and spiked with a pleasant amount of sneaky heat and bits of pork. The fried okra, served with ranch dressing, was cooked just the right amount.
The pasta in the macaroni and cheese, unfortunately, had been boiled beyond a reasonable texture. Still, my fork returned to the dish; the cheese sauce was sweetened with the intriguing addition of green chiles and red pepper. My server was also kind enough to offer fried green tomatoes as a side, even though they're typically part of the $4 happy hour menu, and the fresh fruit was well-matched with that cornmeal breading.
And then there's the fried Kool-Aid dessert, a semi-regular guest on the dessert menu. The county fair temptress was made with the fruit punch flavor, so that the brown exteriors of the five egg-sized spheres gave way to a doughnuty interior. While eating them, I thought the fritters might benefit from a fruity dipping sauce, a sure sign that my indulgent self had been set free.
Review
Mays Counter Chicken & Waffles
2945 E. Speedway
327-2421, mayscounter.com
• Summer hours: 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; 8 a.m.-11 p.m Saturdays and Sundays.
• Family call: Kids menu.
• Alcohol: Full bar, including a wide range of beers on tap for $4 including Blue Moon, Stella Artois, Sierra Nevada, Four Peaks and New Belgium; and PBR tall boys in a paper bag for $3.
• Noise level: Moderate, with a rockin' mix of '80s arena pop.
• Vegetarian options: Grilled cheese, French toast, Field of Greens salad (chickpeas, hearts of palm, artichokes, tomatoes).
• Gluten-free: Chilaquiles, grilled Portobello scramble.
• Dress: Casual.
• Reservations: For six or more.
• Prices: Sandwiches, $6-$13; chicken and waffles, $8-$14; entrees, $10-$16.
• Happy hour: 4 to 7 p.m. daily; $4 fried green tomatoes, spicy spinach dip, catfish tacos, collard green egg rolls.
