A bewitching voice cuts through the blazing heat, singing the cumbia: "Me gustasssss." Standing there in that abandoned dirt lot across the street from the Star's offices, I wasn't really expecting a masterpiece. But here it is ... I am completely, unabashedly enamored with this taco.Β 

Tacontento's Eduardo Chumacera is fromΒ Guadalajara, and this is his specialty. Soft stewed shreds of birria beef are spiced heavily with cumin and clove, and then tucked into a corn tortillaΒ that gets crisped to a sheen on the flattop.

TheΒ taco a la plancha estilo JaliscoΒ comes out on a sheet of tinfoil, and it is finger-searing hot. But that spicy meat, so potent it's almost like a curry, and the suppleΒ tortilla and the Vicente FernΓ‘ndez song that came at the end. It was all so wonderful, I skipped back across the street, singing the entire way.Β 

Insider's tip:Β The salsa bar here is phenomenal; especially the beautiful pico and the spicy avocado with cilantro and jalapeΓ±o. True artisanship ...Β 

The song that started it all:Β "Me Gustas" by Tropicalisimo Apache

Location:Β Southwest corner of East Irvington Road and South Park Avenue.Β 

Phone:Β (520) 981-3908

Hours:Β 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, closed Sundays and Mondays

Payment:Β accepts debit and credit


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Contact Andi Berlin at aberlin@tucson.com. On Twitter: @AndiBerlin