As you step into this sunlit cafe on the South 12th Avenue, be careful not to scuff the cowhide rug. It may be the nicest thing you'll see all day, unless of course you're talking about Sylvia Gonzales' food.

Her restaurant Cafe Santa Rosa serves Tohono O'Odham specialties with finesse, and that is very apparent in theΒ Indian taco with red chili beef.

Gonzales takes dried chile pods brought in from New Mexico, then cuts and cleans them before boiling them down to a viscous maroon sauce that's actually rather mellow. It just glides right over those refried beans, creating a powerhouse of a sauce for that fluffy golden dough. Beautifully-done, but at its essence, approachable ...

Weird fact: If you've got room, you've gotta try the ground beef patty tacos. She slips green peas into them!

Location: 3303 S. 12th Ave.

Phone: 520-203-7569

Hours: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays, closed Mondays

Payment:Β accepts debit and credit cards


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Contact Andi Berlin at aberlin@tucson.com. On Twitter: @AndiBerlin