$16.95-$38.95, 8501 N. Silverbell Road, 744-2800.
Lil' Abner's has been around forever, and its menu sticks to what it knows: steak, beans, salad. But that steak is cooked over a mesquite fire and served up covering the whole plate and sizzling as the juices settle. The 2-pound Cowboy — a thick, beautifully-marbled Porterhouse — has lured us many a time (at $38.95, we share it). The funky, western ambiance is a pull, but it’s that steak that cements our loyalty to Li’l Abner’s.
