Cooking creates all kinds of wonderful and comforting smells, whether it's sugar cookies in the oven or a hearty stew on the stovetop. But for me in fall, there's nothing quite like the smoky-sweet scent of Hatch chiles roasting over an open flame or the grates of a hot grill.
The seasonal delicacy adds a kick of flavor to a wide range of dishes β from stews and sauces to tamales, burritos, enchiladas, and chile rellenos β making it hard to know where to start.
I first encountered the long and skinny green pepper grown in New Mexico's Hatch Valley during a trip to Santa Fe in 2010 for a food writers conference. After the gathering, my husband and I traveled to Albuquerque to do some hiking and cowboy boot shopping and get our fill of traditional New Mexico cuisine, which is a fusion of Spanish, Native American and Mexican ingredients and techniques.
Mild to spicy red and green chile peppers, including Pueblo, Anaheim and Chimayo chiles, are a defining ingredient in many regional dishes. But Hatch peppers β the term for any chile grown in the Hatch Valley β is by far the most popular variety.
Kathy Trent cooks Hatch chiles as they are roasted, as she roasted 2 bushels of the freshly picked New Mexican chiles they shipped to Pittsburgh from the Hatch Green Chili Co. These chiles are then grilled and used in recipes, and some are frozen for later use at her home in Emsworth on Sept. 9.
How to roast
If you buy frozen Hatch chiles, there's a good chance they will already be cooked, seeded and chopped. If you buy fresh, you'll need to roast them not just to enhance their flavor, but to blister and loosen the pepper's tough skin so they can be peeled.
Chances are, you don't have a large, rotating metal drum for charring chiles like you see in the Southwest. But no worries β there are multiple ways to roast fresh chiles at home.
You can spear them as you would a marshmallow on a long-handled fork and heat them over a fire, or you can lay them directly on a gas stovetop, rotating them as the skin blisters. You can also place the pods on a baking sheet and stick them under the broiler, turning them frequently, until they're blistered and blackened.
But the easiest method might be to fire up your charcoal or gas grill until it's fairly hot and place the peppers directly on the clean grill grates. Then, using tongs, carefully flip them regularly so the flames/heat hit all sides and they are evenly roasted.
However you proceed, the chiles should be placed in a plastic bag after they're roasted to steam for a few minutes; once cooled, the skins should slip right off. If you plan on freezing them, don't worry about peeling β the pods will easily peel when you're ready to cook.
Also, be sure to wash each pod thoroughly to remove dirt or debris and pat them dry with a paper towel before beginning to ensure the skin blisters properly.
Below, we offer four recipes that make the most of New Mexico's signature green chile sauce.
Vegetarian Hatch Green Chile Sauce
PG tested
You can use either mild or hot chiles to make this flavorful condiment. If the heat catches your mouth on fire, do not reach for water, but for something sweet, like honey, or a bite of sour cream.
To make a chile sauce with meat, brown 1/2 pound ground pork or beef over medium heat in a skillet until all of the pink is gone, and add to the pot with the rest of the ingredients.
- 4 cups vegetable broth or water
- 2 cups chopped, roasted Hatch green chile
- 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
- 2 teaspoons minced white onion
- 1 clove garlic
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water
- Additional salt and white pepper, to taste
Combine all ingredients except cornstarch in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat.
Reduce the mixture for 10-15 minutes. Add cornstarch mixture.
Reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 5-10 minutes. The sauce should be thickened but quite pourable, with no taste of raw cornstarch.
The sauce keeps up to 5 days in the refrigerator and freezes well. When reheating, add a little extra water if needed.
Makes about 5 cups.
β "The Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook: The Traditional Cooking of New Mexico" by Cheryl and Bill Jamison (Lyons Press, $24.95)
Hatch Green Chile with Pork
PG tested
This hearty, comforting dish is great for topping cheeseburgers for an extra kick of smoky flavor, smothering enchiladas and burritos and, of course, eating right out of the bowl with a warm tortilla for dipping. For a more assertive taste, substitute ground beef for the pork.
- 2 pounds ground pork
- 1/2 cup chopped onions, optional
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2 14.5-ounces can roasted diced tomatoes
- 2 pounds chopped, roasted Hatch chiles (about 12 whole)
- 4 cups water
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- Shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese or crumbled queso fresco, for garnish
- Chopped cilantro, for garnish
In a Dutch oven over medium heat, cook ground pork until it is no longer pink, about 7-8 minutes.
Add onions (if using) and garlic, and saute until the vegetables are soft. Push meat and veggies to the side, and use a fork to mix the flour into the grease in the pan, whisking well to combine.
Add diced tomatoes, chopped green chiles and 4 cups water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat.
Simmer chili uncovered for 30-60 minutes, or until thickened to your liking.
Ladle hot stew into bowls. Garnish with shredded cheese and cilantro if desired, and serve with warm flour tortillas for dipping.
Serves 8-10.
β Kathy Trent, Emsworth
Denver's Famous "Mexican" Hamburger
PG tested
This wonderfully messy chile burger features a grilled burger smothered in refried beans, wrapped in a flour tortilla, and topped with pork green chile.
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- Salt and pepper, or seasoned salt (your choice) to taste
- 1 pound ground beef
- 1 1/2 cups warmed refried beans
- 2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese
- 4 cups green chile sauce
- 4 10-inch flour tortillas
- Shredded lettuce and diced tomatoes, for garnish
- Crushed chicharrones, for garnish, optional
Preheat oven's broiler.
Stir garlic powder, salt and pepper into ground beef. Shape into 4 1/4 -pound patties. Set aside until ready to fry.
Heat a cast-iron skillet until hot. Add patties without crowding. Season again and cook for approximately 2 1/2 minutes on each side.
Heat tortillas in a moist paper towel for 45 seconds, then place individually on oven-proof plates. Divide refried beans among the four tortillas.
Top with a burger and add a couple spoonfuls of green chile and shredded cheese. Fold over tortilla.
Cover with 1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese. Place under broiler to melt cheese.
Remove and spoon green chile around entire plate. Take out and garnish with lettuce, tomatoes and crushed chicharrones.
Serves 4.
β Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette
Huevos Rancheros
PG tested
This vegetarian Mexican breakfast is a hearty regional favorite any time of the day β even dinner. It comes together in minutes and can be served with refried beans and/or Spanish rice to make it a complete meal. So easy!
- Vegetable or canola oil, for frying
- 6 5-inch corn tortillas
- 12 eggs
- 2 or 3 cups vegetarian green chile sauce (recipe follows)
- Shredded lettuce and chopped tomato, for garnish
- Refried beans or Spanish rice, optional sides
- Optional garnishes: fresh cilantro leaves, thinly sliced jalapeno pepper and crumbled Cotija cheese
Arrange several layers of paper towels near the stove.
Add oil to a depth of 1/2 inch in a large skillet, and heat until it ripples.
With tongs, dip a tortilla into the hot oil and cook it until it is softened and pliable, a matter of seconds.
Remove tortilla immediately and drain it on the paper towels. (If you don't act quickly, the tortilla will become crisp.)
Repeat with the rest of the tortillas, then pour out of the skillet all but enough oil to generously coat its surface. Reserve the extra oil.
Arrange each tortilla on a plate and set aside.
Place the skillet back on the stove and heat over low heat. Fry the eggs, 2 at a time, turning once the whites have set and the yolk has thickened.
Top each tortilla with two eggs, arranged side by side. Continue until all the eggs are fried, adding a bit of the reserved oil when the skillet becomes dry.
Pour 1/3 or 1/2 cup of green chile sauce over each serving. Garnish plates with lettuce and tomato and other desired toppings.
Serve with scoops of refried beans and Spanish rice, if desired.
Serves 6.
β adapted from "The Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook: The Traditional Cooking of New Mexico"
Smothered Burrito
PG tested
- 4 7- to 8-inch flour tortillas
- 4 cups refried beans, warmed
- 2 cups grated cheddar cheese, plus a little extra for filling, if desired
- 2 cups green chile sauce (vegetarian or with meat)
- 1 large tomato, diced
- Shredded or chopped lettuce, for garnish
Wrap tortillas in a damp paper towel and microwave them for 30-60 seconds to warm. Or, stack tortillas and wrap tightly in foil, and heat in 300-degree oven for 15-20 minutes.
Set oven to broil.
Assemble burritos: Place a warmed tortilla on a heatproof plate. Spoon about 1 cup refried beans down the center. If you like, add a little cheese.
Roll up the tortilla snugly around the filling, and place it seam side down on the plate. Repeat with remaining tortillas and beans.
Top each burrito with 1/2 cup of the chile sauce and 1/2 cup of cheese. Melt the cheese under the broiler, 1-2 minutes.
Remove from oven and garnish with lettuce and tomatoes.
Serves 4.
β Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette
