When Zane and Leilani Dowling moved to Tucson from Hawaii in 1994, they were immediately homesick for the islands' cuisine.
Carnitas tacos are all right but they don't replace pork laulau, which is pork wrapped in spinach leaves. Chicken enchiladas? They're no match for lomi-lomi salmon, chopped raw with tomatoes and green and yellow onions. And forget about green corn tamales when you can get poi, mashed taro root and water.
Tired of lamenting the lack of Hawaiian food, the Dowlings did what most homesick islanders fantasize about: They opened a Hawaiian restaurant.
Since December 2006, the Dowlings have operated Lani's Luau, 2532 S. Harrison Road, on the northeast corner of Golf Links Road. He had worked in a Downtown office and she worked at Tanque Verde Ranch before opening their island-theme restaurant.
It has attracted former Hawaiian residents, people who have traveled to the islands and the curious who peek through the windows and see the Hawaiian decorated walls and tables.
"Nothing goes on that TV unless it's from Hawaii," said Leilani Dowling, who was born and raised on the Big Island, one of eight main islands.
She cooks while Zane tends to the customers and cash register. The have a 20-something son who occasionally helps and sometimes Zane can be found in the kitchen.
"I'm kind of like the substitute chef," he said.
His favorite dish is the mahi pan fried in garlic and butter. Kalua-style shredded pork is a crowd pleaser, too.
But it's more than the unique Hawaiian food the Dowlings bring to the East Side. They bring a bit of the culture.
On most last Fridays of the month, guest musicians and dancers entertain customers. Hula dancers and slack-key guitar and ukulele dominate the kanikapila, a Hawaiian jam session.
"Our vision for it (Friday night) in the beginning was to have Hawaiian jam sessions," said Zane.
Jaime O'Brien, a local professional musician who was born in England and performs Celtic music, shows up some Friday nights to play — what else? — Hawaiian music.
"They are trying very hard to make it a cultural center," O'Brien said. "It's a wonderful mix of people."
Amateur musicians are welcome, Zane said.
Zane came to appreciate Hawaiian food and culture while in the U.S. Army stationed in Hawaii. The Pennsylvania native gave up the Allegheny mountains for the Mauna Loa volcano.
His marriage to Leilani, who is descended from native Hawaiians, moved him closer to the islands' culture. But since they opened their unique eatery, Zane said he has learned more about Hawaiian culture and cuisine than when he lived there.
While a growing number of Hawaiians, Polynesians and people love the islands, the Dowlings find it a challenge to educate people about their food.
"It's not Chinese food," said Zane.
