Cheers go up at the Kellogg's headquarters when events look like they're headed in the company's favor. From left, Jim Gaffigan, Jerry Seinfeld, Fred Armisen and Melissa McCarthy in "Unfrosted."
Michigan, 1963. Kellogg's and Post, sworn cereal rivals, race to create a pastry that will change the face of breakfast. A tale of ambition, betrayal, sugar, and menacing milkmen, Unfrosted stars Jerry Seinfeld in his directorial debut.
It’s a classic case of disconnect: One generation thinks the other’s humor is uninformed. It’s not – those who hate Jerry Seinfeld’s directorial debut never knew its points of reference. The only bit that grazes both is a sly reference to the events of Jan. 6 and that’s among the weakest gags.
Filled with all those cereal characters who cluttered Saturday morning television, “Unfrosted” follows the Kellogg’s vs. Post attempts to create a new sugary snack that could work without a bowl and a spoon. The item, of course, is the Pop-Tart and the inventors are goofy cereal killers who square off with the milk mob, a group of voice talents and NASA’s creatives.
It's all very silly and hardly true.
But it is a dandy way to recall how Tony the Tiger dominated television and battled Snap, Crackle and Pop for grocery store shelves. Quaker Oats gets in here, too, and the Doublemint Twins get an off-color joke with a stand-in for John F. Kennedy.
It’s totally in Seinfeld’s wheelhouse (remember the cereal in Jerry’s kitchen? Case closed).
To tell the wacky story (and keep it going at a brisk pace), he assembles a who’s who of comedians for cameos. (Only Wanda Sykes is missing.)
Hugh Grant checks in as the voice of Tony the Tiger (and leader of the embittered mascots), insisting he’s a classically trained actor who deserves better. Jim Gaffigan is the goofy head of Kellogg’s and Melissa McCarthy is the NASA brain who’s hired away from Tang to help with the Pop-Tart mission. Amy Schumer, meanwhile, is the name behind Post, warming up to Nikita Kruschev to get his support in the cold cereal war.
Because there are so many one-liners it’s a safe bet some don’t land. A repeated “Jackie O’s” is among them, but that doesn’t undercut the fun Peter Dinklage, Christian Slater, James Marsden and Bobby Moynihan have bringing ‘60s characters to life.
As if to bridge the gap, Seinfeld also lets “Mad Men’s” Jon Hamm and John Slattery weigh in on the best way to sell low-nutrition/high calorie snacks to an audience.
“Unfrosted’s” funniest lines involve people who are no longer alive. (Watch and see.)
Unlike “Dumb Money,” which lampooned another odd moment in history, “Unfrosted” doesn’t bother trying to look for absurdities. It just creates them.
Gaffigan is great as the bumbling boss (and winner of countless Bowl and Spoon awards); Grant secures his niche as the grumpy old man.
While “Unfrosted” won’t prompt a sequel, it is a giddy, frivolous look at something kids once held dear.
Let grandma and grandpa cackle over the Jack LaLanne flex and remember, the world didn’t begin the day you were born. Sometimes, humor takes experience to understand.
"Unfrosted" is now airing on Netflix.
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