Q: I have a saguaro that has developed, over the past couple of years, a marked tilt in the top reach of the main stem (trunk?). It has started to crack at the point of inflection. Should I be concerned that the entire top might come off? If it does, might it bring down the whole saguaro? If this is likely to happen, should I have the saguaro topped?

A: Yes, you should be concerned, especially if there is anything nearby that could be damaged. From the photos you sent, it looks like it is near enough to your driveway to be dangerous. Saguaro cacti are very heavy and could easily harm you or your property. I recommend you employ a certified arborist to visit your property and give you an estimate on the potential hazards, the options you have, and the cost to remedy the situation. You might get more than one estimate to be sure you get a second and third opinion, not to mention the best price.

Q: I have two dwarf Hamlin orange trees that are dying. They have been in large pots since I got them about seven years ago. They are both losing all their leaves and the branches are dying (dried out). I thought maybe they were getting root bound so I transplanted them in the ground but they weren’t root bound. In fact I didn’t see any good size roots just a lot of little ones. I admit I’m not good at feeding them. I’ve put Best citrus food 13-10-4 on them but not very often. Up until this year they were pretty good at bearing fruit but the fruit this year was scarce and not eatable. Do you have any idea what I might try to do to save them? They are in pretty bad shape. This started about a year ago.

A: The transplanting process is stressful on plants so it might take a while for them to come back to good health. To make sure they have the best chance, you need to make sure they receive sufficient water and fertilizer. Your water is best delivered through drip irrigation. In the summer they should receive water every seven to 10 days to a depth of 36 inches. In the spring and fall, you can back that off to watering every 10 to 14 days. In the winter every 14 to 21 days is sufficient. Fertilizer for citrus should be provided three times each year. The first dose should be in the January/February time frame. The second dose should be in April/May and the third dose should be in August/September. If you need information on how much to use, check our handy publication chart in our publication AZ1671-2015 using your favorite search engine.

Q: We live in Tucson and I have a question about an ocotillo we have had for about 10 years. It is watered with drip irrigation, and compared to other ocotillos in our neighborhood, leafs out when they do. It has grown well, is probably 15 feet tall with multiple arms. I have never pruned it; I have just left it alone. One thing that has puzzled me β€” it has never bloomed. There is one other in our neighborhood that hasn’t bloomed, but all the others, including ones that are significantly smaller, bloom every spring. From what I have read online, ocotillos should do well with low maintenance, and ours has seemed healthy in every other way except for blooming. Any hope in that department?

A: I agree that ocotillos do well with little or no maintenance. The first cool rain in the spring of 10mm or more triggers flowering in ocotillos, according to Bowers and Dimmitt (1994). Another factor that affects flowering is temperature. The temperature shouldn’t be a problem in Tucson, so maybe your ocotillo isn’t getting enough water. You could provide supplemental water but not too much because that would be bad for the plant. Desert plants like the ocotillo can get by with watering every two weeks in the summer and every three weeks in the spring and fall. No irrigation is required in the winter. Flowering generally occurs between March and May, although some bloom in the fall.

Q: My overwintering chard has started to show a β€œwhite powdery” substance covering both front and backsides on some of the leaves. Photos are attached comparing normal and white powdery leaves on the chard plants. Any idea what this substance is and are the chard leaves still edible?

A: It looks like powdery mildew. Left alone it can kill the leaves. The organic solution is to spray it with a baking soda and water mixture. There are also conventional fungicides labeled for use on vegetables available if you are OK with that. The mildew washes off and cooking will take care of the fungus, so the leaves should still be edible. Make sure your plants have enough room for air circulation to prevent this in the future.

Q: I have several palm trees that produce clumps of seedpods each year. Right now they are yellow and will turn dark burgundy. Should I cut these seed pods off now before they mature? If not, when should I do it?

A: The reason to cut off the pods now would be to avoid having them drop the debris on the ground and to generally clean up the crown of the trees. Some people clean up their trees annually and others let them drop the seed. It is really up to you. The tree doesn’t suffer from a light pruning each year and now is a fine time to do it.


Become a #ThisIsTucson member! Your contribution helps our team bring you stories that keep you connected to the community. Become a member today.

Peter L. Warren is the urban horticulture agent for the Pima County Cooperative Extension and the University of Arizona. Questions may be emailed to tucsongardensage@gmail.com