3501 S. 12th Ave.
While recording a podcast for his show The Feed, Chicago journalist Steve Dolinsky was wowed by the smoky beef offerings at Tacos Apson. (I saw that light in his eye, when he ate them.) The ribs and carne asada come straight off the mesquite grill, with no seasonings but salt, and a distinctive char that varnishes the fatty meat. Apson's owner Francisco J. Durazo is from Agua Prieta, Sonora, and serves some "unique" specialties like the huevo becerro criadillas, or calf's testicles. Steve didn't try that one ...
