I’ve been under the weather since before Christmas with the upper respiratory crud that seems to going around, so I haven’t been doing much in the kitchen lately.
The piddly bit of cooking that I’ve done has leaned toward soups — thick, creamy purees of vegetables or pulses, such as potato soup or split peas; the Polish-style soup of sauerkraut and smoked sausage that I learned to love in Hamtramck, Michigan, usually garnished with diced dill pickle; modest stuff like that.
“Modest” doesn’t have to mean boring, however.
The most satisfying soup I made last week was a simple, Southwestern-influenced shrimp bisque. Creamy and redolent of cumin and chili powder, garnished with avocado and cilantro, it really hit the spot.
Bisques are a family of rich soups that often feature seafood; my years in New England taught me to love shrimp, crab, lobster and oyster bisques. Whatever its type, bisques rely on dairy ingredients to elevate them from simple to sumptuous.
Some recipes “cheat” by thickening the bisque with flour but, as with chowders, I think the best bisques are made of the simplest ingredients, and I prefer to rely on heavy cream, which provides both richness and a signature silky texture.
This particular bisque gains additional richness from a bit of sour cream. You’ll “temper” the sour cream by whisking in a bit of the soup before returning the sour cream to the pot. Doing so ensures that the sour cream doesn’t curdle.
What’s that? You’re worried about fat and calories? Pish-tosh! A hearty two-cup serving of this bisque has just one-quarter cup of heavy cream and another quarter-cup of sour cream. The bisque itself is rich enough to serve as an entree, and makes an indulgent supper if sided with a couple of baguette slices toasted and run under the broiler with a bit of cheese atop them. I like a good melty cheese for this — if you haven’t any Oaxaca-style cheese on hand, try Fontina, Pecorino Romano or shredded Gouda.
This particular soup is fairly economical, too — just a half-pound of shrimp serves two. If, like me, you generally keep shrimp in the freezer, you’re already on your way to something satisfying for supper.
My friends in New England would probably rail about the addition of chili powder and cumin to this classic bisque recipe. But my palate has shifted to a Southwestern preference, and for me, they’re a logical addition — as is the garnish of cubed avocado and cilantro.
This soup was so good that I almost didn’t mind the crud that drove me to figure out something simple to eat. Certainly I didn’t feel deprived in any way. Perhaps you and your favorite person will feel the same way.
Southwestern Shrimp bisque
Makes 4 cups, about 2 servings
Don’t skip the first step of making a fast shrimp stock from the shrimp shells — its flavor really enhances this simple soup. Some bisques rely on flour to thicken them but I prefer to rely on the silkiness that heavy cream provides.
Ingredients
½ pound uncooked medium shrimp, plus a few extra for garnish
2 cups water
1 small onion, chopped
1 tablespoon butter
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 teaspoons lobster or chicken stock concentrate, such as Better Than Bouillon
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons dry sherry, optional
Fresh cilantro, cubed avocado and additional shrimp, optional, for garnish
Preparation
Remove shells and tails from shrimp; set shrimp aside.
In a small saucepan, combine shells and tails with water; bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 5 to 10 minutes while you continue with the recipe.
In another larger saucepan over medium heat, saute onion in butter until tender. Add garlic; cook a minute longer. Stir in the cream, chili powder, stock concentrate and cumin; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for 5 minutes.
Strain the shells and tails from the shrimp stock; discard shells and tails. Add shrimp stock to cream mixture.
Cut shrimp into bite-size pieces; add to soup. If you planned for additional shrimp for garnishing, add them whole to the soup. Simmer 5 minutes longer or until shrimp turn pink. Gradually stir ½ cup hot soup into sour cream; return all to the pan, stirring constantly. Heat through (do not boil). Remove from heat; stir in sherry, if using.
Garnish each serving with cilantro, avocado and additional shrimp, if desired.
We all know vitamin C is great for the immune system but oranges aren’t the only great source of it.
