Jonathan Landeen is a firm believer in this important cooking rule:

There are no rules.

In baking, yes, precision is necessary. But not so in cooking, said Landeen, this month's chef in our online show, "Cooking With the Star."

Landeen, chef/owner of Jonathan's Cork, is a whirlwind in the kitchen - he lines up bowls, spoons, pans and ingredients, quickly and in the order he'll use them.

He hands out copies of his recipes.

And then he starts to cook, pretty much disregarding the recipes he's just handed out.

It calls for one egg; he decides to use two. Two tablespoons of butter look like three, maybe four. One-quarter cup of mustard surely is more than that.

"Unless you're baking, you have some flexibility," he explains as he prepares to brown pistachio-crusted lamb chops in some butter and oil.

"If you're cooking, you can use one tablespoon - it doesn't have to be exact. Recipes are just guidelines."

The lamb dish is a customer favorite at the restaurant, and shockingly easy to make.

The meat is dusted with flour, dipped into beaten eggs and then dredged into a mixture of chopped pistachio nuts and panko bread crumbs.

He pours some of those bread crumbs into a bowl and insists we take a closer look. "Look how much lighter they are," he demanded. They are - panko breadcrumbs are used in Japanese cooking, and they are coarse and light and provide a wonderfully crunchy crust. They can be found in Asian markets.

After a quick sautéing in a pan, he pops the lamb into the oven, and whips together a rich mustard cream sauce, sautés his already-blanched spinach and browns his red potatoes.

Within a half-hour, he has a complete meal, with tender lamb set off with a crunchy crust and a velvety mustard sauce. The coating and the sauce combine to underscore, rather than overcome, the meat. Then, faster than you can say "see that meat sizzle," he cleaned up, packed up and was off to his restaurant, where, we're sure, he was breaking even more rules.

Pistachio-crusted Lamb Chops with Mustard Cream Sauce

Serves 4 people

* 16 chops off a rack of lamb

* Salt and pepper

* Flour

* 2 eggs, beaten

* 1/2 cup pistachio nuts, chopped, and mixed with

* 1 cup panko bread crumbs

Cut excess layer of fat off lamb racks and cut into chops.

Season lightly with salt and pepper and dust with flour.

Dip into the eggs, and then dredge in the nut/bread crumb mixture. Sauté at medium high heat until golden brown on one side. Turn over and place in a baking dish in a 400-degree oven for 10-15 minutes. Remove and serve with mustard cream sauce.

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Mustard Cream Sauce

Makes about 2 cups

* 2 tablespoons butter

* 1 tablespoon flour

* 1 tablespoon shallots, chopped

* 1/4 cup brandy

* 1/4 cup Dijon mustard

* 1/4 cup Creole mustard

* 1/2 cup heavy cream

* Salt and pepper to taste

Make a roux with 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon flour. Roll into small balls and set aside.

Sauté shallots in remaining butter. Add brandy and reduce by half. Add both mustards to the cream reduction. Stir in the cream and bring to a simmer. Add flour balls to thicken - one at a time until desired thickness is achieved (remaining balls can be tucked into refrigerator and you have a roux at the ready). Salt and pepper to taste. Spoon over the lamb chops.

Jonathan Landeen, Jonathan's Cork


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* Contact Kathleen Allen at kallen@azstarnet.com or 573-4128.