Sometimes when Missael Montijo looks out the window at Taqueria Juanitos, he realizes he’s looked out this particular window for almost his whole life.
The bright purple building on Grant Road is home for him.
Since he was 16 years old, Montijo has worked at Taqueria Juanitos, landing a job a year after they opened. Now at 42 years old, he’s still in the kitchen, crafting delectable tacos stuffed with flavorful beef or pork.
His love for Taqueria Juanitos was even passed down to his son, Issael, who cooks right by his side, learning all the ins and outs of making the juiciest cabeza you’ve ever tasted.
The same can be said for Monica Suazo.
Some of Suazo’s earliest memories are sitting at the counter. When her parents couldn’t get a babysitter, she’d go to the restaurant with them, chatting with all the customers that’d walk through the door.
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From the moment you step foot in Taqueria Juanitos, located at 708 W. Grant Road, you can feel the love everyone has for the bright purple building. With some of the best tacos in the city, you can taste the love in the food too.
All that love starts with Antonia Mendoza.
Back in 1987, Mendoza and her family opened a food truck in California, offering a few different types of tacos for those who wanted to give a new truck a try. Mendoza had learned how to cook from her mother, who taught her how to master traditional Michoacán dishes.
The little food truck suddenly began to grow, getting more popular thanks to their combination of authentic Michoacán recipes and the style of street food seen in California.
Taqueria Juanitos was outgrowing their food truck, so they moved to the next step: opening their first brick-and-mortar. Just like their truck, they continued to see hungry customers line up for tacos.
After spending 11 years in California, Mendoza and her family moved to Tucson. Thankfully, their illustrious food and recipes made the move with them.
In 1997, Taqueria Juanitos opened in Tucson, continuing the legacy of serving up tacos that make so many customers come back for more.
“Trabajamos muy duro con mucho amor,” Mendoza said, which translates to: “We work very hard with a lot of love.”
Over the next 28 years, Taqueria Juanitos grew its little family. Montijo joined the staff and learned how to cook from Mendoza, mastering the same recipes Mendoza’s mother once taught her.
Mendoza even had a family of her own, who also became apart of Taqueria Juanitos at a young age. Suazo, Mendoza’s daughter, fondly remembers working there with her siblings, seeing firsthand all the work it takes to run a restaurant.
Just like they once outgrew their truck, in 2024, Taqueria Juanitos began to outgrow their spot on Grant Road.
So, they made their home a little bigger.
In 2024, Taqueria Juanitos got a makeover: a bigger kitchen and a bigger dining area so no one has to stuff tacos in their mouth while standing up anymore. The walls are all painted bright colors, matching the multi-colored chairs at each table.
One of the rooms has a Virgin Mary painted on the wall, just like it had before the renovation. In the other room, giant orange, purple and pink flowers cover the wall along with vibrant monarch butterflies, courtesy local muralist The Desert Pen.
“We had to work in the food truck outside for three months and prep at a commissary kitchen,” Suazo said. “It was really tough for those three months, but we all agree that it was worth it,” Suazo said with a smile on her face.
You feel like you’re at Disneyland while you wait in the roped line, anxiously waiting your turn to order. When you finally get to the counter, there’s nothing on your mind except the juicy, flavorful cabeza you’re about to inhale.
To make their beloved cabeza tacos, Issael first starts off by putting the beef cheek into a giant pot along with seasonings and water. It then cooks together for the next 16 hours, cooking very slowly to get tender and juicy.
Throughout the 16-hour process, Issael also makes sure to get rid of the fat. That way, you’re left with a lean beef rather than chunks of fatty, mushy meat. It’s that extra step that really puts this taco over the top.
When they finally call your number, you get the honor of looking at a perfect plate of tacos. Double corn tortillas stuffed with cabeza and topped with chopped onions and cilantro cover the red checkered lining on the plate. Your tacos are also accompanied by limes, slices of radishes and two salsas to dunk your meal in.
From the first bite, you can taste the labor of love that went into making it. The meat has a rich, juicy flavor to it, nice and tender without having a layer of fat coat your mouth. The best part: you don’t have to worry about the taco breaking apart due to the juices — it’s double-wrapped!
With a squeeze of lime and a drizzle of the red salsa on top, it is the perfect cabeza taco. In fact, it is my favorite cabeza taco I’ve ever had.
And cabeza isn't the only thing on the menu made with love. Their al pastor and carnitas are also fan-favorites, each just as tasty as the last. So next time you’re craving tacos, I’d drive straight to the purple building, where you can taste the love and history in each mouthwatering bite.
Jamie Donnelly is the food writer for #ThisIsTucson. Contact her via e-mail at jdonnelly@tucson.com