There’s something instinctive about how our appetites change as the seasons shift. All summer long, I wanted light dishes with bright flavors. But now, as I urge my pampered pup, reluctant to leave his snoozing spot on my bed, to do his business in the chilly dawn, I find myself thinking of the warming, cozy dishes I have missed since March.
I’m ready to enjoy fall’s special pleasures. October is arguably the most beautiful month in my native Michigan, where I learned to love the apples grown all around me and the pumpkins that popped up at every farm stand. I have carried that seasonal love with me everywhere that I’ve lived, including here in Arizona’s low desert.
This chicken-pumpkin-apple stew is one lovely way to celebrate the season.
While American culinary traditions do not commonly combine savory spices such as cumin and chili powder with sweet spices like cinnamon and cloves, I’ve taken a cue from the Moroccan tagines that I love and used both in the stew. A bit of honey or brown sugar, stirred in just at the end, emphasizes the apple’s sweetness without asserting itself and makes the stew’s flavor more complex. A little squeeze of lemon or lime juice over the finished dish brightens its flavors even more.
Sometimes I serve this stew over a scoop of cooked rice — or couscous, or mashed potatoes, or orzo, or some such bland, starchy side that will make use of the stew’s delectable broth. Other times, I serve a bowl with a hunk of bread to swab up that broth. Whichever way you serve it, those for whom you cook will be pleased.
I have specified a firm, tart apple for this recipe. Here in Arizona, that’s likely to be a Granny Smith, Braeburn or Pink Lady apple — all keep their shape in cooking. Macintoshes make great sauce, but “melt” in cooking, so they are not suitable here. Some other varieties that I’ve seen around town include Gala (my favorite apple for eating out of hand, but not for cooking); Golden and Red Delicious, the familiar lunchbox favorites; and Fuji, another favorite snacking apple.
If you would like to visit a pick-your-own place, find one through a quick Internet search. My favorite is Apple Annie’s in Willcox, but you may find another closer to you. Meanwhile, some understanding of apple math can be helpful.
- Three medium-sized apples weigh approximately one pound.
- One pound of apples, cored and sliced, measures about 4
½
- cups.
- A 9-inch pie needs two to three pounds (or six to nine medium-sized apples). Combine tart and sweet apples for the best pie.
- Two pounds of apples yields one quart of applesauce
CHICKEN-PUMPKIN-APPLE STEW
Makes 4 to 6 servings
This stew comes together very quickly, so it’s wise to get all ingredients prepped and ready before you begin to cook. Look for a small pie or mini pumpkin to use in this recipe, or, if you are feeling really pressed for time, use already cut-up fresh or frozen butternut squash. Make sure the apple you choose will hold its shape when cooked. Vegetarians can double up on the pumpkin and apple and omit the chicken for an equally satisfying meal.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon hot chili powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon cloves
1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 cups peeled and cubed pumpkin
1 large or 2 medium firm tart apples, such as Granny Smith, Braeburn or Pink Lady, cored and cut into cubes
1½ cups chicken or vegetable stock
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon honey or brown sugar
Hot cooked white rice, for serving, optional
Chopped coriander, for serving
Lemon or lime wedges for serving
PREPARATION
In a Dutch oven or heavy-lidded pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When it is fragrant, about two minutes, add the onion.
Cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, about five minutes. Add the garlic and cook a minute longer.
Stir in the smoked paprika, cumin, chili powder, cinnamon, and cloves. Cook, stirring, for a minute or two, until the spices are fragrant.
Add the chicken breast pieces, stir to coat them with the spices, and cook, stirring, until the chicken is whitened on all sides, about three minutes.
Add the pumpkin, apple and chicken or vegetable stock. Bring the mixture to a boil, cover and reduce heat to simmer.
Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through. Remove lid, season to taste with salt and pepper, stir in the honey or brown sugar, and cook an additional 10 minutes to slightly thicken the cooking liquid.
To serve, place a scoop of hot cooked rice in a large soup bowl, if using. Scatter chopped coriander over the top and serve with lemon or lime wedges to brighten the stew’s flavor.
