Owner/chef John Martinez, left, and general manager Tatiana Devere quietly opened the Tito & Pep restaurant on Tuesday night. The opening gave his staff a chance โ€œto get their legs underneath them,โ€ Martinez said.

While the outside world focused on politics and the midterm elections on Tuesday night, Tucson chef John Martinez quietly opened Tito & Pep, his midtown neighborhood bistro on East Speedway.

โ€œWe really want to be a neighborhood spot. A comfortable spot,โ€ he said of the modest space at 4122 E. Speedway that gave birth to Feast and was last home to Zayna Mediterranean. โ€œWe want to have ambiance and we want to have our neighbors in and be a really comfortable space.โ€

The restaurant seats 65 at tables and another seven at the bar.

From his kitchen, Martinez grills vegetables, meats and seafood on a mesquite wood-fired grill, imparting a flavor that Martinez says is central to the culinary heart of Tucson.

The subtle flavor of the wood โ€” Martinez said mesquite is part of the culinary terroir of the region โ€” is imparted in the grilled trout perfumed with fresh garlic with a hint of sweet heat from guajillo chile. A tarragon chimichurri complements the grilled salmon while steak skewers are paired with a chipotle tomatillo salsa.

Tucson native John Martinez announced in a video Tuesday that he was temporarily closingย his two-year-old midtown restaurant Tito & Pep.

โ€œI have beans and salsa; is it Mexican food? No, not really,โ€ said Martinez, whose influences are informed by memories of cooking at his grandmotherโ€™s side as a kid, working in Tucson kitchens in high school and spending more than 20 years in the culinary stable of nationally celebrated chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. โ€œI just wanted to make something that resonates with our region and is contemporary with whatโ€™s going on in other parts of the country.โ€

And in an age where restaurants are more focused on fast-casual in price and concept โ€” assembly-line, pick-your-toppings pizzas, sandwiches and burritos averaging $8 โ€” Tito & Pep is positioning itself as a modest neighborhood bistro.

Entrees run from $14 for the fall vegetable pasole made with root vegetables to $24 for a grilled New York strip steak; appetizers start at $9 for queso fundido and run as high as $16 for the grilled octopus.

Tito & Pep, which takes its name from a story his grandmother made up to tell her sister in the 1920s and โ€™30s, was more than a year in the making.

Striped bass with spiced carrots, oyster mushrooms, fresh herbs and grilled vinaigrette is one of the plates at Tito & Pep, 4122 E. Speedway.

Martinez, who returned home to Tucson from the East Coast in spring 2013, signed the lease for the space months after Zayna relocated to the old Molinaโ€™s Midway building on East Belvedere Avenue.

It took months to draft his blueprint to build out the space and then do the construction.

Tuesdayโ€™s quiet opening gave his staff a chance โ€œto get their legs underneath them.โ€

Martinez said that restaurants can be caught off guard when they open by large crowds and he wanted to make sure his staff was ready.

โ€œI donโ€™t consider myself to be in the restaurant business; I am in the hospitality business,โ€ he said. โ€œWhen people walk in the door I am welcoming them into my home. If people have a nice place to sit down, they are receiving great hospitality; we want to take care of them.โ€

Tito & Pep is open from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 5 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

Restaurants that have opened in Tucson in 2018


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Contact reporter Cathalena E. Burch at cburch@tucson.com or 573-4642. On Twitter @Starburch.